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April 27, 2010 / Wave Tribe


What is more important than joy ?

If during my day I keep watching what gives me or does not give me joy, it helps me do more of what I like and reduce what I don’t like.
If what I don’t like is a necessity (for the time being), well, I learn to accept it.

The  tool I often use is take a few deep breathes and exhale with the mouth. It instantly works. It takes you to a magical place where everything is suspension. It helps you realize how tiny your problem is compared to the immense beautifullness of life.

Have you ever had this thought of “what am I doing out here surfing today ?” The waves are huge and gnarly. You shit yourself so much, you don’t want to challenge the shorebreak even if it’s the only way back to safe life. The fear takes you far out to sea where waves don’t break.

Then, your brain goes full speed. Like a prey looking for options to survive. When the brain ends up accepting that the only way to make it will be to paddle back to the beach, you might go through a brief moment of acceptance. If at that stage, you breeze deeply, you might find a spontaneous instant of joy and peace. You might even feel your lips starting to rise into a smile. You might look at your fear with compassion and accept it as a part of yourself.

I have experienced looking at myself  from above, with beautiful waves around me. With fearless surfers riding good waves around. Suddenly the fear was replaced by joy of being out here surfing these good gnarly waves. It’s the magical moment to catch a wave before your brain starts again. I think that if you catch a wave at this moment, it can be a great step in your life.

We all need help in life. In order to fuel my life with  the energy of joy, I surround myself with positive people, music, movies, readings. I like watching the sun. He was a god for many civilizations. I see it as my beautiful warm friend.

Please enjoy one of my joy and peace links….

Jean – European Chief Surfin’ Officer


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